Picking a power supply that’s too small can cause instability or shutdowns under load, while one that’s needlessly oversized just wastes money. This calculator adds up the estimated power draw of your components and applies a safety margin to recommend a PSU wattage, so you can shop with a target number instead of guessing. It’s useful whether you’re planning a new build, checking if your current PSU can handle a GPU upgrade, or troubleshooting random reboots under load.
| GPU | GPU maker’s PSU | With Ryzen 5 7600: load → PSU | With Core i7-14700K: load → PSU |
|---|---|---|---|
| RTX 4060 | 550W | 284W → 550W | 449W → 600W |
| RTX 5060 Ti 16GB | 600W | 349W → 600W | 514W → 700W |
| RTX 4070 Super | 650W | 389W → 650W | 554W → 750W |
| RX 7800 XT | 700W | 432W → 700W | 597W → 800W |
| RX 9070 XT | 750W | 473W → 750W | 638W → 850W |
| RTX 5070 Ti | 750W | 469W → 750W | 634W → 850W |
| RTX 5080 | 850W | 529W → 850W | 694W → 950W |
| RTX 4090 | 850W | 619W → 850W | 784W → 1050W |
| RTX 5090 | 1000W | 744W → 1000W | 909W → 1200W |
Calculator defaults: 2 RAM sticks, 2 drives, 3 fans, no overclock. The load counts the CPU at its maximum turbo/boost power; the PSU adds 30% headroom, rounded up to 50W, and never goes below the GPU maker’s figure.
How this is calculated: the formula on our Methodology page. Sources: part specs from each maker’s official product page (our hardware database); GPU makers’ recommended PSU wattage.
Quick answer
This calculator sums your components’ power — using the CPU’s maximum turbo/boost power (Intel’s “Maximum Turbo Power”, AMD’s PPT) and the GPU’s rated board power — then adds 30% headroom and rounds up to the next 50W step, such as 650W or 750W. It never recommends less than the GPU maker’s own PSU guidance. The margin covers PSU efficiency loss, parts peaking together, and brief GPU power spikes above rated TDP.
What the Result Means
The calculator gives you a recommended minimum PSU wattage, not the exact number your components will draw at every moment. The recommendation is deliberately higher than your components’ combined typical draw, because power supplies run most efficiently and safely when they aren’t operating right at their rated limit, and because real-world power draw spikes briefly above average, especially under a demanding GPU load. If the result says, for example, “650W recommended,” that’s the wattage rating you should look for when shopping, not the wattage your PC will constantly consume — actual draw from the wall will usually be lower than that number during normal use.
How This Calculator Works
The calculator sums the estimated wattage of your listed components — CPU, GPU, storage, RAM, motherboard and fans. For the CPU it uses the chip’s maximum turbo/boost power from the manufacturer (Intel’s “Maximum Turbo Power”, or AMD’s package power limit, PPT) rather than its lower base TDP, because a power supply has to carry the peak the CPU is actually allowed to draw — an Intel Core i9-13900K, for example, is rated 125W base but 253W maximum turbo. For the GPU it uses the rated board power (TDP). It then adds a 30% headroom margin on top of that sum and rounds up to the next 50W step, matching the PSU wattages manufacturers actually sell (550W, 650W, 750W, 850W and so on).
That headroom margin covers three real things: PSU efficiency loss (a power supply pulls somewhat more from the wall than it delivers to your components, with the difference lost as heat), the fact that components rarely all hit peak draw at exactly the same instant but occasionally get close, and — increasingly important on modern high-end GPUs — transient power spikes. Modern GPUs, particularly higher-end ones, can briefly spike well above their rated TDP for fractions of a second during load changes, and a PSU with no headroom can trip its protection circuits during one of these spikes even though the average draw is well within spec.
Worked example: Take a build with an AMD Ryzen 7 7700X (105W TDP, 142W package power limit under full boost) and an RTX 4070 Super (220W TDP), with the calculator’s default two RAM sticks, two drives and three fans. That’s a component sum of about 443W (142 + 220 + 10 + 12 + 9, plus 50W for the motherboard). Adding 30% headroom brings the parts-tally target to about 576W, which rounds up to 600W. But the calculator never recommends less than the GPU’s own manufacturer-published PSU guidance, and NVIDIA lists 650W as the recommended system power for the RTX 4070 Super — so 650W is what the calculator actually shows for this pairing.
Important Limitations
This is a planning estimate, not a lab measurement of your specific PSU or components. Actual power draw varies by silicon quality (even two units of the “same” chip can differ slightly), overclocking or undervolting, ambient temperature, the specific game or workload, and how many drives, fans, and peripherals you have connected. The calculator also can’t know your exact PSU’s real efficiency curve, since that depends on the specific unit and its efficiency certification (80 Plus Bronze, Gold, Platinum, and so on) as well as load percentage.
Because of the transient spike behavior of modern GPUs, we’d rather round up than down — if your result sits right between two common wattage tiers, choosing the higher one is the safer call, especially if you plan to add drives, overclock, or upgrade the GPU later without replacing the PSU. This calculator is not a substitute for checking your GPU manufacturer’s own recommended PSU wattage, which is also listed for each GPU in our spec tables.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it bad to oversize my PSU by a lot?
Not dangerously, but it’s a waste of money and PSUs are usually least efficient at very low load percentages. A PSU sized for roughly 50-70% load under typical gaming use is a reasonable sweet spot rather than one so oversized it rarely runs above 20-30% load.
Why does the calculator recommend more wattage than my parts' TDP adds up to?
Because TDP figures are typical or sustained ratings, not peaks — which is why the calculator uses the CPU’s maximum turbo/boost power instead of its TDP — and because PSUs lose some power to heat rather than delivering 100% of what they draw from the wall. The headroom margin covers that plus brief power spikes from the GPU.
Does PSU efficiency rating (80 Plus Bronze vs Gold vs Platinum) matter for sizing?
It affects running cost and heat output more than the wattage you need, since the rating measures how much of the wall power becomes usable DC power rather than how much total capacity you need. A higher-rated PSU of the same wattage will typically run a bit cooler and cost a bit less to operate over time.
Do transient spikes really matter for PSU sizing?
Yes, especially with higher-end GPUs. These are very brief power draws above the GPU’s rated TDP that can occur during sudden load changes, and a PSU with little to no headroom can shut down protectively during one even if the GPU’s average power draw is normal.
Can I reuse my old PSU for a new GPU?
It depends on both its wattage and its connector availability (some newer high-end GPUs need specific 12VHPWR or multiple PCIe power connectors). Run your new component list through this calculator and compare the result against your current PSU’s rated wattage and connectors before deciding.